Sunday, May 9, 2010

Insights Into Helmut Lang: Architecture and Contrast

    Jessica : Cracked-leather paneled shorts , Ambient Viscose Blazer, Puckered Lace Cami Top all by Helmut Lang

    Cracked-leather paneled shorts, Ambient Viscose Blazer, Puckered Lace Cami Top all by Helmut Lang

    Jessica: Combo Cracked Leather Jacket in Black

    Combo Cracked Leather Jacket in Black

    Rachel : Mid-rise jersey-panel legging jeans

    Graphite-print jersey tunic

    As promised, here are a few more outfits from Helmut Lang, three pieces of which I was able to get commentary on directly from the designers Michael and Nicole Colovos.

    In the first photo, Jessica is wearing a pair of Cracked Leather Panel Shorts. Inspiration for these was derived from an old pair of military shorts. Cut up lines, added seams, and plays on the pocket size break the piece away from a classic military aesthetic and add that signature Helmut Lang modern, architectural touch . The idea was to make them a luxurious pair of shorts with a beaten up texture, hence the "cracked" name.

    In the second series, Jessica is wearing the Combo Cracked Leather Jacket designed to be worn as a modern sweatshirt. The expensive cracked leather dresses the jacket "up" and the jersey simultaneously dresses it "down" via the comfort factor of a traditional sweatshirt material. The theme of contrast --one the Coloveses work with often -- is evident with the 3D texture of the cracked leather when displaced against the flat jersey fabric. While it's designed as a leather jacket, it's still not so precious that you can't dress it down.

    In the second series, Rachel is wearing signature Helmut Lang denim/jersey legging jeans, best summed up in one word CONTRAST--a recurring theme in the Colovoses designs. Contrast the texture and wash of the denim with the flat jersey fabric. Contrast the the traditional workman fabric (western wear) made modern via sinewy lines for flow. Contrast traditional plain stitched denim with denim that has interesting wavy visuals, a result of the curvy jersey/denim stitching. It all flows together on the body for comfort and maximum visual interest.

    It was a pleasure to meet and greet with everyone at the Helmut Lang team. All the way from Holly and Shaye straight to the Colovoses themselves. Thanks!

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Insights Into Helmut Lang: Architecture and Contrast

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